19-Nights Seoul to Osaka: Beaches & Big Cities - 18-to-Thirtysomethings

Jeju Island

Large Jeju Island 60 mi/100 km off the coast of the mainland and 300 mi/485 km south of Seoul has a distinctive history, dress, architecture, language and tradition. Jeju is an extremely popular tourist destination for Koreans, especially honeymooners. Millions of won have been pumped into building deluxe hotels and modernizing infrastructure. Although development has somewhat ended the island's isolation, it hasn't eroded its charms—it is still a great place to visit. Jeju seems a world away from the mainland, even though it's relatively easy to reach—only an hour's flight south of Seoul or a several-hour ferry ride from Busan, Mokpo or Wando.

If you have a choice of when to go, visit in late spring, when Jeju is covered with beautiful yellow yuchaehwa flowers. The island's primary attractions are beaches, fishing, casinos, scuba diving, a weavers' village (Hallim), hot springs and three stunning coastal waterfalls, particularly the Jeongbang Falls at Seogwipo, which plunge almost directly into the sea.

In friendly and festive Jeju, the largest city on the island, there's a Folkcraft and Natural History Museum and an interesting market. About 4 mi/6 km from the city is Moksuk-won, a natural sculpture garden of stone and wood. On the south side of the island, Jeju Folk Village Museum, a collection of traditional houses with musical performances and displays, is well worth a visit.

Also on the island is the tallest mountain in South Korea, Hallasan, which is topped with snow in the winter. There are hiking trails on this extinct volcano, and it has an impressive crater lake. Be sure also to visit some caves: According to legend, three gods emerged 2,500 years ago from the Samseonghyeol (literally "three clans' holes") to create the Jeju Island people.

On a drive around the island, note the black-lava statues of old men, called harubang: Their origin is unknown and the subject of much debate among anthropologists. You can also watch as divers (traditionally women) hunt for clams, pearls and abalone. A dying breed, these incredible women dive into the ocean's depths for long periods of time without using any scuba or snorkeling gear.

Other attractions include saltwater baths (in Sinyang, Hyeopje and Jungmun), the Bijarim nutmeg forest, tangerine groves, the Sanbanggul Buddhist Grotto, the Jungmun beach-resort area and Manjang Cave (the world's longest lava tube). Plan at least two to three days to explore the island.

Jeonju

The epicurean capital of Korea and a paper-producing center 125 mi/200 km south of Seoul, Jeonju draws travelers to its sixth-century Geumsan (Gold Mountain) Temple and 40-ft-/12-m-high Buddha. The city also maintains a Hanok village with about 800 traditional houses.

About an hour's drive east, Maisan Provincial Park provides a beautiful setting for the many pagodas of the temple Tapsa (especially in the spring and fall). Other attractions in the area include Deokyosan National Park and the Mireuksa stone pagoda. We suggest one day in Jeonju.

Osaka

Hiroshima

Kyoto

If you can visit only one city in Japan, Kyoto is the one. This ancient city, 30 mi/50 km northeast of Osaka, was the capital of Japan for more than 1,000 years and still is considered the country's spiritual capital. Thousands of shrines and temples dot the city, including more than a dozen on the UNESCO World Heritage list. That list is far from all-inclusive, and many excellent places that might be the star attractions of other cities crowd the streets of Kyoto. It is a center of Japanese Zen and has several huge monastery complexes where serious students still sit in meditation.

Kyoto is also the nation's capital of traditional arts. Whether your interest be in pottery, textiles, dance, the tea ceremony or any of the other innumerable arts, Kyoto has excellent galleries, museums, shops and tea houses. Japanese people from the countryside and foreign students flock there to learn under the great masters. Much of what is considered Japanese haute cuisine was developed there too, as an offshoot of the tea ceremony.

Kyoto is Japan's heartland of history. With 1,300 years of tumultuous existence, the city's past intrudes upon the present day as in few other Japanese cities. In Gion, you can spot a geisha (or geiko, as they are called in Kyoto), one of the last hundred or so in Japan, slipping down a side-street to entertain rich guests with witty conversation, dance or music. A shopping arcade may suddenly fill with discordant clanging music as a shrine festival passes among the shoppers, or you may hear the long chant as Zen monks pass through the neighborhood, calling for alms.

Kyoto is an understated city that might disappoint visitors at first (at first glance, it is a large city with modern buildings that might not align with one's original perception); its charm lies in small details, pocket gardens, tiny traditional restaurants and refined artwork.

Tokyo

Tokyo, Japan, presents a different view at every turn. It's one of the world's main economic centers and its most populous agglomeration. The business of Tokyo is business, but you can still find harmony and small-scale gardens on back streets. Around the corner from neon and concrete, you may find the bonsai-lined courtyard of a traditional inn.

Tokyo was nearly destroyed by bombs and fires during World War II, and by earthquakes at other times, but it has always rebuilt itself. As a result, there is little left of Old Japan in the city, but there's plenty of New Japan to take its place.

The streets are a confusing maze, so a map is essential. The transit system is excellent, however, and there are kobans (police boxes) throughout the metropolis, as well as a populace generally willing to answer questions.

Visitors to Tokyo represent both business and leisure travelers. And despite its past reputation, Tokyo is no longer fearsomely expensive. It's relatively easy to visit Tokyo on a budget.

Pusan (Busan)

Seoul